Days 110-124: Gorham, NH to Monson, ME
Hi from Monson, Maine! I’m in my last state, in my last town, soaking in the last bit of civilization before heading out on my final push through the 100-mile wilderness to Katahdin. So far Maine has been amazing: not at all a break after the Whites but full of tough and technical climbs that reward with sweeping views.
We’ve walked 2000 miles!
Before I get to the specifics, we’re officially thru-hikers! The ATC defines an Appalachian Trail thru hike as any hike of 2000 miles or longer on the trail. A couple of days ago we hit that marker. So technically, I could go home now, but no way am I bowing out before Katahdin.
The Mahoosuc Notch: third time’s the charm
The Mahoosuc Notch is noted in guidebooks as the AT’s toughest mile. No picture or description can really do it justice, but basically the Notch is a mile-long stretch of giant boulders, that hikers have to maneuver their way over, under, and around. I’ve done the notch twice before, the first time on my very first experience on the AT, on my FOP trip (my college orientation trip) in 2014, and then again as a FOP leader in 2017. Both times the notch was a struggle. I was lacking in strength so I needed help from others to boost myself up particularly difficult rocks.
This time, though, I really experienced the strength and competence I gained from my 2000 miles of walking. I was able not only to get myself through the notch by myself but have fun with it—it felt like a rewarding puzzle instead of just an exhausting hell-mile. And we sped through it—only 1 hour and 40 minutes to get through!
Wild Maine
The landscapes here have been absolutely incredible. Everyone describes Maine as being the most rugged state on the trail, and from my perspective it feels like the White Mountains’ wild twin. Southern Maine was home to beautiful alpine summits with sweeping vistas, but without the road crossings, swarms of day hikers, and full-service huts. I love the solitude. Plus, Maine is riddled with lakes. I love sitting by the lakes in the morning or at lunch and just watching the water ripple.
Town excitement
Aside from the amazing hiking, Maine has brought some awesome towns. In Rangeley we stayed at the Hiker Hut (the hostel with the garden and the sunflower pictured below), where we were greeted with chips, salsa, and fruit on arrival, took outdoor showers and slept in private cabins by a babbling brook. The hut had no WiFi or cell service, so it gave us a chance to actually relax, instead of the quasi-relaxing town days filled with replying to texts, making calls, and catching up on media. We nearoed in Rangeley on July 3rd, which serendipitously turned out to be the day of their 4th of July celebration. There were duck races, stands, and most importantly, a patriotic dog parade. I never knew I needed to see dogs dressed up like Uncle Sam until that moment, but now I realize it is absolutely crucial.
We stayed at the Caratunk House in Caratunk, which has homemade, old fashioned milkshakes made to order. It was the perfect treat right after a day of hiking (and I mean right after…milkshakes are far more important than laundry or showers).
Up Next…
Katahdin. I’m almost there folks. I’m about to enter the hundred mile wilderness, so next time you hear from me I’ll be done.